Darran Mountains Rock Trip
3 days-$1650 Per PErson
4 days-$2050 Per PErson
Rising above Milford sound and the Hollyford River the Darran Mountains boast the best quality rock in New Zealand.
This area is a classic New Zealand Alpine rock climbing destination. Home to routes such as "The Labyrinth", "lucky strike" and "The Bowen Allen corner". As well as world class alpine rock climbs the Darrans also has some of the best sport climbing the country has to offer.
During this trip guides and guests stay at the NZAC Homer hut which is a cosy little hut tucked away in the bush of the upper Hollyford Valley.
Itinerary for the Darran Mountains Alpine Rock Trip:
1. Day One:
· Guests meet their guide at the Wanaka Rock Climbing office.
· Drive to NZAC Homer hut.
· Climb a 7 pitch route on the Shotwell slabs.
2. Day Two:
· Hike to the Homer Saddle and traverse to the base of Moirs Mate
· Climb one of the Classics like "lucky strike" or "The Bowen Allen corner"
3. Day Three:
· Complete the Macpherson-Talbot traverse, A fun day of scrambling, snow travel and epic alpine views.
· Drive back to Wanaka.
4. Optional 4th day:
· This day generally includes a day of Sport climbing at the “Chasm” or “Babylon” but can also be adjusted to fit in another day of alpine rock climbing on Moirs Mate or the North face of Barrier Knob.
What is included in the price.
· All rock climbing equipment
· All food (Vegetarian, Gluten free and Vegan options available)
· Accommodation cost at NZAC Homer Hut
· Any Equipment needed for Bivying
The Shotwell Slabs are located in the upper Hollyford Valley and have easy accessed friction slab climbing which is a great way to warm up to the Darrans style of climbing.
We prefer to climb the link up of Eureka into Tickety Boo. A fun 6 pitch link up with amazing friction moves and great views!
Both the following climbs are approached by the Homer Saddle Traverse which is a long exciting scramble above the Homer tunnel.
Both routes climb to the summit of Moirs Mate!
Bowen Allen corner:
This Classic route was put up in 1972 and has become the classic route on the Diamond face of Moirs mate. 8 pitches of engaging slab and crack climbing. Great climbing, exciting positions and epic views put this route up there with one of the best moderates in the country! 8 pitches- Grade 17.
This quality route was put up in 2010 and has become a modern classic in the Darran Mountains and is the reason that climbers head out to the west face Moirs Mate. immaculate rock, fun movement and exposure are the hallmarks of this route. 8 pitches- Grade 20
This day involves hiking to the homer saddle and instead of turning south, this time we turn to the north and scramble up "Talbots Ladder" to near the summit of Macpherson. Now a crossing over snow slopes leads to Traverse Pass and down to Gertrude saddle. From the saddle we follow the trail back to Homer hut!
The Cleddau Valley is the valley that drains into Milford sound. Inside this large glacial valley are three of New Zealand premier sport crags with three different characters!
The Chasm Crag offers three to four pitch climbs on clean steep diorite with the upper pitches protected from the rain by enormous roofs. Climbing here in a torrential downpour, on dry rock enclosed within sheets of water pouring over roofs in a 70-metre cascade, is a unique experience not to be missed.
Babylon is a huge expanse of orange rock next to the Cleddau river, bolted sport and multi-pitch routes that start off extremely technical and get steeper and more pumpy the higher you go!
Perched above Babylon with great views of Miter peak and Milford sound Little Babylon provides one of the most exciting sport climbing experiences in the country. Wildly steep terrain on beautiful red stone. This crag is so steep if offers dry climbing in even the heaviest down poor!
The following route is approached by hiking to Gertrude saddle and then over Barrier Knob to the north face.
Labyrinth is THE CLASSIC New Zealand Rock climb! Sustained and bold climbing taking a direct line through steep slabs. Originally climbed and bolted on lead in 1988, it was re-bolted in 2001. This route is worth the trip to New Zealand alone! 5 pitches- Grade 22